Three New Years in One Year

First things first: I really have a problem when public bathrooms charge for entrance. They make you pay a women who just sits at the entry way and hands you a ridiculously small bit of toilet paper. Then you enter and squat over a hole in the floor covered in a mixture of water and pee. I would be okay with the fee if I needed toilet paper from them or if the toilet was actually a nice toilet to sit on, but I just don't. I usually come prepared anyways with baby wipes or just opt for the simple drip dry. It is bad to say, but Zach and I try to find all ways to avoid paying and will sneak around buildings to find secret places to go to the bathroom. Good thing we are both very low maintance about this situation. 

I forgot to mention in my last blog about a wonderful and random afternoon that we had in Hoi An, Vietnam. We hit Vietnam right during their two week long holiday for Tet (New Years), so families and friends were all over celebrating it up. As we were walking along the streets of Hoi An trying to buy ourselves souveniers- which we probably didnt really need anyways-we were dragged into a families New Year celebration. They had opened up their restaurant and were pulling travelers in, welcoming them to their drunken karaoke family dance party. Although I would say that Vietnamese are no latinos and are not born with the gift of dance, they really do know how to have a good time. With loud karaoke blasting asian tunes, lots of beer,and  an endless supply of weird foods we stayed a good three hours with them.  Every time we would put down our beer to dance with them, another luke warm beer was handed to us. We danced in circles (kinda like the horah), did the typical train dance, and of course, gangam styled danced our afternoon away. Older asian men really seem to have a thing for Zach and he quickly made a friend who kept kissing him on the cheek and grabbing his thumb to press it against his thumb (that must be a thing and mean something there). We were so grateful for their hospitality (especially the free beers and food), it really started the Tet holiday off on a good foot. 

We have celebrated three New Years this year: the normal one at home, one with the Karen Hilltribe people in Thailand, and now the Vietnamese/Chinese Tet! Three new years in one year.

Tet, which also aligns with the Chinese New Year, is a really festive time in Vietnam. People have two weeks off and travel back home to celebrate with their families, eat good meals together, and light incense and burn paper things for their ancestors. People everywhere are cheersing beers for the old year and wishing you good luck in the new year to come. There is also a tradition of flowers, in which they line the streets with potted flowers of all kinds. We were in Ho Chi Minh for the actual New Years day and really got to see how it was done. There was a giant street blocked off to cars covered in all these flower displays. Lights everywhere, people dressed up walking around taking a million photos, and amazing fireworks! Zach and I, and a million billion other Vietnamese people flocked the streets to catch the fireworks at midnight. There were so many people pushing their way to the front I almost had a crowd panic attack and thought I would be killed by a million asian people falling on top of me (not the way I want to go). After latching onto a train of young vietnamese people running to the front, we found ourselves right at the waters edge to catch a really great 17 minute long firework show. Strangly, at the strike of midnight, no one yelled "Happy New Year"-instead all were pretty silent watching the fireworks, and then instantly when they were done the crowd left. People came, and then left. Probably because they needed to get to their moto bikes and drive in hella traffic back home.  

On the last day of the lunar year, Zach and I were really lucky to see it how the locals do it. We met up with my dad's colleauge's (Lan) family who live in Ho Chi Minh.  Having no real idea who these people were exactly, nor where they lived we were presently surprised by the day. We somehow made our way through the large city streets on moto and made it to their house. We were welcomed into their home to celebrate the first day of the Tet holiday with Lan's family. Lan's mother, father, and two brothers showed us how it was all done. We ate a delicious home cooked meal that Lan's mother had slaved away making all day, ate the typical new years cakes, saw the shrine they set up to pray to their ancestors, and got to hear the stories and lives of the family. The brother was really stoked to show Zach a couple of his asian style boxing and fighting moves, while Zach helped improve his computer by downloading legal things only. We listened to the father tell us stories of the Vietnam war, and laugh out how he thought my dad was really tall when he met him once in Berkeley. Really, I think he is just short. The two brothers then gave us a mini city moto bike tour and treated us to ice coffee. Great day with locals. One day when they come to the states, we will have to treat them to a good american meal and day in return. People are so nice in Vietnam and I am always really amazed at how much people love to show off their culture and country to tourists. 

Aside from the day celebrated Tet with this family, Ho Chi Minh kinda sucks. We showed up and in an hour or so already had made our decision that we did not like it. WAY TOO MANY PEOPLE! and the food was not nearly as good, in fact we ordered a plate of noodles and after Zach pulled out a large asian hair from his mouth, we realized it was the grossed greasiest noodles ever and gave it to a poor street kid instead.  That was our first food fail all trip. There are also just way too many motos on the street and lots of pollution that it perpetuated this right nasal headache I had for way too long. We prayed for our life every time we crossed the street because there is zero acknowledge for pedestrians right of way. You pretty much just cross your fingers, dont hesitate, and just go for it. We got really good at it eventually and would put up our hand and march through the streets weaving in and out of motos. really quite exilirating and ultimatly just makes you so grateful for the organization of the road work at home. Thank buddha for the invention and use of traffic lights at home. 

Even though Ho Chi Minh in a raging city of 30 million people hussling all over on motos, there are some really nice comforts that a city offers. For instance, we went twice in one day to this chain coffee place called Highland Coffee and just sat, read, and played backgammon over cold ice coffee and oreo milkshakes. I also was in heaven when I found this bakery that served legitimate looking like breads and cakes and muffins-really miss that stuff, so i treated myself to the best chocolate muffin ever. We also hit up the movie theater and saw the badly rated action film Die Hard while eating delicious butter popcorn and pastries. Apparently the San Francisco icecream shop,Buds, has even made it to Ho Chi Minh. 

Best Pho Ever: upon request from a great friend Sara Steinberger (who deserves loads of credit), we walked a good ways into China town and found the best Pho restaurant ever! Pho Le! Backed with locals, the bowl of pho had the most amazing broth and beef. Really beat all the hundreds of bowls of soup we have eaten in Vietnam. 

From Ho Chi Minh we took a one day tour to the Mekong Delta. I was expecting that the delta would be a beautiful experience of rice paddies and floating markets and quiet locals. However, it was far from that. The floating markets were shut down becuase of the New Year and we were just shuddled around like cattle to all the tourist islands on the Mekong River. Despite my disapointment, it was still a great time. We got to hold a giant snake, see an allegator pit, watch a fire eating performer, sample local coconut candies (Zach and I really hit up those samples hard), and hear some local musicians playing their traditional folk instruments. The highlight was the bee farm that we went to where we got to sample this honey, tea, pollen, and lime drink. Really delicious and something I want to recreate for sure at home. 

Walking down the streets we have been asked if we want to buy marijuana sooo many times. They all say the word "marijuana" slightly wrong, and we can only imagine how sketchy it is. Not sure if it is Zach's crazy head of dreads that gets them askin' or if it this happens to all tourists. 

Going backwards in time and farther north in Vietnam, we stopped in the town of Dalat. Although originally not on our radar of places to hit up, we could not resist the talk of a mountain honey moon town with a hostel that had a hot tub and sauna. And of course, we loved it. It was ultimatly just really nice to see hills and mountains again. And the "Dream Hostel" we stayed in was exactly what it was called-a dream escape with free access to a hot tub and sauna. I have not met anyone who loves saunas more than Zach, so of course we really maximized our time there. And it was all well deserved after the days full of moto biking around the country side. Instead of paying for a stupid Easy Rider tour where someone drives you around to all the spots on a moto, we rented our own moto and made our own adventure. Much better, especially since Zach is a really good moto driver (I definetly need more practice on quieter roads). Motoing around we got to wide around the mountain roads into the countryside full of fruit fields and greenhouses. We spent our first day hiking up to the top of a big mountain in the area, and although I was feeling pretty sick that day it was good to move the legs and remind myself how much I love to hike. The next day we moto around to see the "elephant waterfall", which was really gross trash water flowing over this big cliff and then to see the pagoda, which was definetly one of the best pagodas i have seen. I love a good pagoda with good buddhas. 

The days in Dalat all ended with going to the same Pho restaurant, then a stroll around to make us hungry again, and then back to the same block for hot peanut soy milk and pastries. I really think there would be a great market in the bay area for an outside cafe that serves really good homemade hot soy milk and pastries. Hipsters and young professionals looking for a "healthy" option would really eat it up. Low benches and tables, good baked goods, and some hot milk. 

One night in Dalat Zach had this momentary headache and almost vomiting feeling come upon him. Who knows why, but it was nothing a little moto bike ride and some rollerskating couldnt cure. We hopped on the bike to get him some fresh air and on some random side street found a mini rollerskating rink. For less than  a dollar an hour we rented really janky rollerblade (i dont even want to think about how old and sweaty they were) and rollerbladed and skated around in circles with a bunch of highschool locals. There was even music, colored lights, and a mini ramp to go up. Granted I was wearing skates that were 3 sizes too small for me and one of them didnt lace up to provide any ankle support, it was a great time. Zach didnt have to vomit anymore and he even began working on his skating backwards technique. Good solid fun. 

After a good relaxing pre-valentines day honey moon escape, we heading to Nha Trang beach town. Nha Trang is known for its booze cruises, resorts, and parties. when we showed up at 5am in the morning we saw direct evidence of that with this really fat traveler who we have seen before just passed out in front of the hostel underneath a sorry looking aquarium. Too drunk to make it another couple of feet to his room. Upon not getting ourselves into this sad pathetic situation, Zach and I opted for exactly the opposite of what the average budget backpacker does there. Instead, we found this amazing spa mud bath resort place for only $7/day. We spent the whole day treating ourselves to mud baths, mineral tubs, fake waterfalls massages our backs, and giant hot and cold pools. Such a treat. My skin felt like literally a babies bottom after that experience for a good couple of days. Then at night we found this fancy restaurant loaded with russians (apparently there are direct flights from Moscow to Nha Trang), where there was home brewed beer!!!!! After drinking shitty 5% light beer this whole trip it was such a treat to sip on a dark home brew. We also treated ourselves to hot pot there. Giant bowl of soup boiling over a mini burner on your table. Point for us. 

We bought this hacky sac like thing that locals here play with in the parks. It is all over asia and has feathers on it so it floats in the air and looks easier to kick than a hacky sac. Cant wait to hit that up later. 

So that is pretty much it with Vietnam. Three border crossings down and off to Cambodia to see Angor Wat, some of the most amazing ruins in the world ranked up there with Machu Pichu and Petra. 

We got to Siem Reap, the town right next to Angor Wat, at around 9pm-apparently way too late to easily find a hostel. Since it was still Chinese New Year every chinese person and their mother was there and it took us almost 2 hours to find a place to stay. I definetly hit a low moment that night. After searching for awhile, with a headache still, and no food in my belly i got pretty cranky. So the overpriced late night plate of nachos was well worth it. Once passed that moment and all settled in, we had a great three full days visiting the ruins. The temples and pyramids of the Khmer civilization are all spread out so we hired a tuk tuk driver to get us around-and well needed too becuase it was sooooo hot during the day that the shade and wind the tuk tuk provided was really important. We almost died during the middle of the day when we did not have anymore water and their was limited shade. Thank god for cold cokes. 

The ruins are really quite fantastic and it was amazing getting to explore and climb all over them. Us and a million other chinese people in giant tour groups saw the sunset on top of one of the ruins, and then woke up early to see Angor Wat during sunrise. Trying to ignore the constant flashes and photos that Chinese people take, we got to see Angor being lit up by the morning sun and explore inside when there weren't as many people. Chinese tourists are everywhere, travel in really big groups, are pretty annoying because they crowd around doorways and in front of your pretty sunset view with their computers and ipads and cameras snapping WAY TOO many photos. Besides the crowds, Angor was a magical place covered in jungle and cool trees growing out of the ruins. Amazing to think that ancient civilizations had the intelligence to build such well constructed buildings and with such beautiful detailed carvings on the walls. Nothing really like that in modern architecture. 

The night of Valentines Day we treated ourselves to Cambodian BBQ (on the secret local menu the tourists normally dont see),  a fish massage, full body massage (from blind people), and a foot massage. Life is good. The fish massages are the most hilarious amazing things ever. I freaked out for the first 15 minutes or so becuase having all these little fish eat dead skin off your feet is the most ticklish thing ever. Once I calmed down, it really is quite nice and your feet feel so soft afterwards. The first fish massage we got was great, but unfortunetly the one on V-day was in a gross poopy tank with a dead fish floating around. Also, the massage from the blind person was not my favorite...it was nice supporting this cause, but I was not a fan every time he had to feel around and tap me to find the parts on my body he was going to massage next. 

I gave in and bought a pair of elephant pants. Oops. Almost everyone has the same pair of pajama like pants with elephant print on them. I kept telling myself that I didnt want to be like all the other travelers, but I finally gave in and bought some and am so happy with my purchase. Wonder if I will ever have the balls to leave the house with them at home. At least I am not like this one other traveler we met who bought 10 pairs all for herself!!! 

After a way too long bus ride from Cambodia to Thailand that should have been 8 hours, but instead took 12 hours and a 3 hour line at the border in the blazing hot sun, we are back where we started our journey-Bangkok. An overnight bus tonight will take us down south to the beaches, islands, free water soloing, snorkeling, scuba diving, tanning, massages, and ultimate relaxation. 

Thanks for reading and staying tuned to my adventures! Till next time...